Burbage South Edge: Left Section
Past Parthian Shot the edge starts to shrink, and comes into its own for the boulderer.
1. Classic Arête Problem 7a+
Start on front face, move up and left onto left-hand side of arête finish up this.
2. The Alliance 7a+
Great double arête. Highball. (Pete Oxley)
3. Home Cooking Slab 6c
Climb the slab side of the arête.
4. Home Cooking 7a
Just left, the double arêtes give more fridge-hugging climbing above a poor landing. Highball. (Johnny Dawes)
5. Triangular Wall 6c
The lovely, rippled triangular wall is a gem from a sit start.
6. Desparête 7b+
Another immaculate double arête feature formed by the right arête of the groove and the arête right again. (Johnny Dawes)
7. The Impossible Groove impossible
The stunning groove on this wall is not known as The Impossible Groove for nothing, and has seen failure by the great and the good of international bouldering.
8. The Rib 7b+
Located in a small bay 50m further on is this small quarried rib. It looks a lot easier than it is, but it’s also a lot better than it looks. Tenuous climbing with a final slap to a jug. (John Welford)
9. Intense 8a
A small overhung quarried wall. Jump to high right-hand sidepull and snatch to top. Stacking mats to reach the high holds is much easier and indeed the problem is somewhat incomplete without the obvious sit start from the slot. (Jerry Moffatt)
10. I’m Tense 7b
From low pocket on Intense, go up left via undercut and sidepull. (Mo Overfield)
11. 6b
Pocket to sloping break.
12. Fuji Heavy Industries 7b
Awkward sit start to right-hand side of arête. (John Welford)
13. Little Rascal 7a+
The starting groove of the route is tremendous. Escape right from the sloping ledge, or jump down. (Johnny Dawes)
At the far end, 20m further on is this worthwhile find:
Capstone
After the last rays of bouldering disappear towards the northern horizon, and the edge merges into moor, one last capstone floats on heather and bedrock, halfway between the end of the edge, and a promising looking set of pinnacles 50m further on. Two problems exist, rewarding for the man who has done everything.
The Whippet 6c+ Climb out from the break to the lip, and a stiff lock “˜n’ grovel to the top – no arête. (John Welford)
The Flat Cap 7a+ On the opposite, north-facing side, starting from the lowest part of the capstone. Traverse left and up from two crimps with a variety of heel hooks, shuffle moves and bunch-ups, to a top-out on the highest part of the block. (John Welford)