The Quarries and Edge
Perhaps the best bouldering on Burbage South is littered around the quarries and small quarried walls on the main edge, although it is far from a concentrated circuit. A good session here should leave you tired and satisfied (or just plain tired).
7a
A good slab, but make sure you start from the floor at this grade – even a slight udge up reduces the difficulty a lot. Located on a small hillock in the first jumble of boulders that can be seen up and right from the Green Drive (above and right of a large, circular stone trough).
6b
The appealing rib was, unfortunately, born without a landing. Either balance your mats as best you can or do it old-skool style without. It’s on the right of the path, just before the entrance to the south (Cioch) quarry.
South (Cioch) Quarry
Trellis7a+
Highball problem up the shield of rock opposite the vast Cioch block. Undercut, edge, edge, top. Watch that landing. (Ben Moon)
Between the Quarries
Between the quarries is a pleasing plateau with a smattering of quality problems around it.
1. 5+
Classic concave wall.
2. 6a
Wall and breaks.
3. 5+
Lovely arête.
4. Little Gem 7b
The excellent seam in the small wall. Several methods at several grades. (Andy Popp)
North (Zeus) Quarry
In the depths of the quarry is an inconspicuous block and on that block is.
1. 7a+
Sit start the arête on the obvious small block to a slopey finish. Intense. Ignore the slabby chipped block in the middle of the quarry floor. It’s crap.
2. Zorev 7c
The arête on the edge of the quarry 50 feet left of Zeus. The broken patio landing hardly makes it any easier. (Jerry Moffatt)
Zorev Sit Start 7c+ Desperate moves lead into the original problem. (Mick Adams)
3. 7b+
The isolated hanging prow facing back into the quarry from a squatting start with feet on the back wall. 6b from standing.