Burbage South Edge: Central Section
The quarries now give way to a mostly natural edge. It’s a superb circuit with generally good landings, some shade and isolated problems appearing every twenty feet or so.
1. Roller Wall 7c
Highball slab, direct. Take yer stiffest boots and yer biggest pad. (Ron Fawcett)
2. David Traverse 7a
Climb (walk) along the shelf, drop round the corner and traverse the edges rightwards to reach flakes at the right-hand side of the wall. Finish at a finger jug.
3. Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier 7a
High and scary Рindeed not really a boulder problem at all. But as mat technology improves, it becomes ever more enticing. Climb out to the ar̻te, then up and back left to finish. The direct start is harder. (John Allen)
4. Dork Child 5
The arête on its left-hand side.
5. Pebble Mill Traverse 7a+
Traverse from the undercut on the front face around the arête, and through the scoop to finish on the right arête. It’s also possible to do it in reverse at the same grade. Rather good.
6. 6a+
The slabby rib is a great problem.
7. 7 Ball 6c
Like an easy 8 Ball. Sit start right of the groove and move left and up the groove and rib. Brilliant.
8. 6a
Arête. The wall to the left is 4+.
9.10.11.
An appealing slab that has a range of good, easy problems. The hardest problem climbs just right of the left arête without the arête or the groove (about 5+) and then they get easier as you move right.
12. 4
Easy arête.
13. 6c
The mantel just right of centre is much easier than…
14. Jason’s Mantel 7a
Mantel onto the low slopey slab from a hanging start, just left of centre. (Jason Myers)
15. 6c
Climb the wall left of the arête.
16. 5+
Great arête, taken on the left.
17. 5+
Edge, edge, top.
18. 6b+
Tackle the front of the small block face-on from a sit start. Cute.
19. Electrical Storm 7a+
Sit start the lightning bolt rib in the pit and top-out up the sloping ramp.
20. Attitude Inspector 7a
Fantastic flying dyno up the arête. The tall will miss out on all the fun by doing it statically. (Mark Wilford/Derek Bolger)
21. 6c
Crimpy flakes in wall just right of crack.
22. 6a
Arête from jug.
23. 6c+
Sit start on the pedestal, out to lip and roooccckk for the pocket.
24. Definitive 5.11
Tunnel into the gap between the boulders and work your way back out along the crack.
25. 6b
Rock onto the hanging slab.
26. 5+
Pockets ‘n’ stuff.
27. 5+
High arête.
28. 5
Right arête on the left-hand side.
29. 5
Left arête on the right-hand side.
30. 6b
Wall via shelf.
31. 7b
Traverse the block just right of The Knock from a jug on the arête to finish up slopes just right of centre.