Burbage South Boulders The Burbage South Boulders provide one of the friendliest circuits in the Peak. There are stacks of easy problems, all with perfect landings, and the occasional harder problem tucked in between them. The boulders are in a beautiful setting at the bottom of the Burbage Valley, sheltered from the worst of the winds.
The Whale
1. 5
Rising rightwards line along the arête/top of the block.
2. 5
The wall past a pocket.
3. 5
The wall past a break.
The Useful Block
4. 4+
The small rib. The short crack just left is 4+.
5. 3+
Crack.
6. 5
The slab is one of the best problems on the boulders. An eliminate up the scoop to the left, without the crack is 5+.
7. 5+
The sharp quarried arête is climbed on the right. Classic.
8. 6b
The wall on crimpy edges.
The Useless Block
9. 5
An inelegant mantel onto the top.
10. 4
The blunt arête is easiest on its left.
11. 4
Wall and pebbles.
12. 4
The slab and arête on the other side of the gap between the boulders
13. 5+
The arête on the next boulder along. Climbed on the left. 6a+ on the right.
14. 6a
Left side of the arête.
15. 3+
Scallops and rib.
The Pig
16. Little Pig 7c
From a sitting start on thin pockets, slap up the rounded arête to finish via a mono. Lovely moves. (John Welford)
17. 4
Pull into the scoop and occasional puddle from low.
18. 5+
A good hidden slab and a good test of footwork.
The Brick
19. Crash ‘n’ Gurn 7a
Pull on and dyno to the (often) puddle-filled scoop from a sitting start holding a large undercut and a mono.
20. 4
The arête above the slot. From a sitting start this problem is a tricky classic.
21. 4
The centre of the wall.
22. 4
The arête.
23. 4+
The slab just right of centre is very good.
24. 4+
More slab climbing left again. Those without a bit of reach may find it harder.
25. 4
The wall just right of the arête.
26. 5+
The steep arête on the boulder just next to The Brick.
27. 3+
Any which way up the rib and slab.
The Dog
28. 7a
Sit start. Snatch up edges and dishes. The footblock is in at this grade.
29. 6a
Jump to the edge and top-out.
30. 6a+
Traverse the rising edge of the boulder from a sitting start.
31. 4
The elephant’s arse/bum feature.
The Rabbit
32. Bugs 5
The short blunt arête, climbed on the right. An eliminate taking the arête straight on (“˜Bunny’) is 6a.
33. 5
The bulge to the left, via the edge.
34. 5
A reachy arête.
The Tank
35. 4+
Sit start the small steep block.
36. Tiger 6a
Classic slap from sidepulls to incut.
37. 3+
The big flake.
38. Panzer 6b+
Traverse the top of the block from left to right, shedding skin as you go.
39. 6a+
Jump to the hold and top it out.
40. Chieftain 5
The delightful rib.
The Armoured Car
41. 4+
The wall right of the arête.
42. 4
The arête and flakes.
43. 4+
The short wall just right of centre has one of the nicest pebble holds on grit.
44. 4
The wall left again.
45. 5
Traverse the face leftwards from the right arête.
The Sheep
46. 5
Climb the arête on its left.
47. The Sheep 6c+
The curving crack and slopey pocket. Superb.
The Sheep Assis 7b
It’s much harder from sitting.
48. Sickle Crack 6c
The Sheep left-hand. Layback the crack on the left with help from slopers on the arête. 7a from sitting.
49. Talk to Me Martin 7b+
A painful pull using the small edge. The rumoured problem to the left is just that, as is the sit start.
Pock Block
50. Puck 5+
The blunt arête is climbed on shallow dishes. A tasty sitting start is 7a+.
51. Pock 5
A classic wall climb up bullet hole “˜pocks’. A good 6c from sitting.
52. Pick 3
The blunt arête on big sandy scallops starting from the rock platform.
53. Pock Man 5+
The precarious slab.
54. 7a
Tricksome slab – work up the left side of the scoop.
55. 3+
Mantel onto the slot.
The Cobra
56. The Cobra 4+
A lovely easy traverse that climbs really nicely.
57. 5
Mantel over the roof – watch your back on the boulder behind.
58. 3
Around the other side of this block are some more 3s.
The Kidney
59. 3+
The slab and hanging crack.
60. 4
The right-hand crack.
61. 5
A delicate traverse. Start on the extreme left and traverse rightwards, walking your feet along the bottom of the slab, to finish up the right-hand crack. The traverse can be continued rightwards, but quickly gets much trickier.